Most of these Herd models are old Games Workshop Beastmen models, and as such, don't have any kind of pseudo-base added to the model's feet. Therefore, the big base was done up separately from the model, and we can focus more on it (to start).
This kind of basing works well with the larger unit-sized bases... with multibasing and Kings of War... these bases should look pretty cool when all finished. Let's get to it!
Part One: The Old Snow
Step 1: Add your additional terrain features, such as rocks or trees. For this step, I've added some pieces of cork board to the base (with superglue). Cork board is a really simple way to get some rocks and texture to your bases, and can usually be picked up cheap (as a sheet) at a lot of stores. If you pick up an actual framed cork board... it's going to cost more. I picked up my at a CVS, of all places.After I glued the cork, I decided to to try something new. A pen had just died on me, so I used a hobby knife to split it roughly down the middle, added a thin layer of green stuff to it, and then tried to carve it to look like a fallen tree.
Step 2: I'm using the Vallejo White Pumice paste. Again. The more I use it, the more I like it. I'm down to about a 1/4 of a tub left...It does well as sand, but it also is pretty great at being old, hard, crusty snow. I was't too particular with it's application, and you can see how the paste slopped all over the cork and trees.
I could be cavalier in the application, since I plan on doing a Part 2 of this basing scheme and know what that entails. If you decide to do just Part 1 on your minis.. be more delicate with your application, or conversely, you could add more paste to really hide the transition from one terrain piece to another. A prime area for more paste would be the left side of the logs on the left base, and really camouflage where the tree ends..
Step 3: With the foundations of the base done, it's time to prime! Despite a good argument for priming in white (You're going for snow, you dummy!), I still opted for black, on account of the rocks. They look really weird primed white, and no matter how I've tried to cover that up in the past, it's never worked out. Gray could work, but I had black on hand, so here we are.Step 4: Once primed, you paint. I took an old, larger brush (detail is really not important at this stage) and added diluted white paint to basically anywhere there was paste, as you can see from the left base in the picture.
Once that diluted coat of white paint dried, I added a light blue layer of paint with a wet brush (so, this paint coat is also diluted, but less so), painting over much of the now-white-again paste areas, which you can see from the right base in the picture above.
The cork rocks got a coat of dark gray paint, and then a layer of light gray paint to give it some contrast. The logs got a brighter brown color, and then a dark brown wash to set off those knots and bark recesses.
With the other terrain features done, I returned to the snow. With a dry brush, I added another layer of white paint to the snowy paste areas. The aim is to cover the highest parts of the paste, and leave a little bit of blue left when you are done.
The picture is after alllll this painting is done.
The rocks are a nice and easy way to add a little to the model, and something I've done for a while now. The trees turned out ok for an impulsive idea.
In future tree-related things, I'll focus on adding little branches, sculpting better bark and knots, and making the end of the tree more irregular, A few tweaks of that process, and I think my future trees will look pretty good. Anways, this brings us to the end of Part One.
Part Two: New Snow
Edited 10/8/17
Previously, I had been using just glue and baking soda for snow effects. However, after about a year, the glue starts to yellow, and no amount of "yellow snow" jokes could save it.
My new approach, using white paint now, with the glue and baking soda, can be found here, or through the Hobby Basics tab.
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